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![]() So you need to remove whatever will get in the way. ![]() When removing the assembly from the engine it is going to have an approximate length of 1 foot with limited ability to turn it in any direction until it is fully out. Both to ensure the crank remains motionless during the repair. First remove the negative battery cable and remove the accessory belt off of one of your pulleys if your synchronizer is close to the belt. I chose the second method to fix my van and here is how I did it. Basically, if the old one is set right the new one will be right if you match the orientation of the half-moon vane on top of the synchronizer while the engine is left motionless during the repair. Or a significantly easier way if a few criteria about your vehicle are met The easier method requires that the half-moon vane on top of the synchronizer has not been damaged by the magnet coming loose out of the camshaft position sensor that is bolted on top, and that the old synchronizer is currently set properly so you can set the new synchronizer in the exact same position as the old one. This is the gold standard for insuring your vehicles timing is set properly, but is more labor intensive and requires more skill and tools. The first by the book requiring an additional person to help rotate the crankshaft until the #1 cylinder on the engine is top dead center and a special alignment tool for around $25 to $30. There are 2 basic ways to remove and install a new camshaft synchronizer. Then I knew the bearing was worn on the camshaft synchronizer. To my surprise the squeaking was still there eliminating the belt driven components. At first I thought it was the water pump or the belt tensioner but as a process of elimination I removed my accessory belt to run the vehicle for half a minute to see if the noise was still there. ![]() I replaced the synchronizer on my 96 Windstar 3.8L because my van was making a terrible screeching noise. ![]()
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